Solo Snow Trip Hokkaido Part 2 - Moiwa

This is part 2 of my solo journey through Hokkaido - traveling from Hakodate to Niseko and skiing Niseko Moiwa. Check out Part 1 for Hakodate.

Hakodate to Niseko

After a quick nourishing breakfast of grilled salmon, shredded crab/ikura don at the Donburi Yokocho, it was time to set off to Niseko and Moiwa - a smaller resort next to Annupuri. From Hakodate I took the Hokuto Limited Express to Oshamambe station where the local Hakodate Line would connect to the Niseko area.

Hakodate station

JR Hakodate station is smaller, much less busy than Sapporo Station. There is a 7-11 with a constant line of people paying for coffees and sandwiches. Hokkaido Shikisai Kan is a souvenir shop where you can pick up local produce such as dried squid, Hakodate beer and Mori Ikameshi - an award wining ekiben of squid with rice. Menchuubo Ajisai has an outlet here in case you need a last fix of Shio ramen.

Oshamambe Station

Oshamambe station is a connecting stop and the bane of traveling skiers & boarders traveling up to Niseko. A small terminal with a bridge connecting the platforms to the stations. With no escalators or lifts, You have to drag your luggage up and down the stairs to the waiting room and repeat the process in reverse once your connecting train arrives.

The waiting room as a couple of vending machines (no beer) and a souvenir shop featuring Manbe-kun the town mascot - a young boy with a lobster body and scallop ears

Stuck with a large board bag and unable to leave the station, I looked on in envy as some travelers managed to procure kani meshi *crab rice” ekiben. Kanimeshi Honpo Kanaya is famous Oshamambe for its minced crab rice. They have a dining room modeled after a train carriage.

Kutchan to Moiwa

On arrival ini Kutchan, I took a taxi to Moiwa - a journey of around 30 mins. Looking out the window, I could see it was seriously dumping by now, and you could only just make out the silhouette of Mt Annupuri. Good omens for the next day.

The Lodge Moiwa 834

This hotel was originally purpose built by the North Face to house their athletes. Now it is available to all guests searching for Moiwa’s famed powder and tranquility. Unlike Hirafu, there isn’t much apres activity, and the most happening joint around here is the Mokunosho onsen hotel where skiers go to soak and revitalize after a big day.

Moiwa Lodge’s capsules were quite impressive - a modern 2 level design with sleeping area on top and massive storage compartment beneath. It was very spacious, with enough room for you to sit up and get changed inside them. You can adjustable the colors of the lighting in case you wanted to party by yourself?

The facilities were well suited to traveling skiers and boarders. There is a dry room with lockers big enough to accommodate one set of gear. The communal lounge / chill out area was fairly small. With sofas, bench seating, a microwave and hot water stations. For some weird reason, the restaurant is closed between 4-6 so you can’t enjoy a drink there. Can’t complain about the bath facilities. They were always clean and spotless. 

The best thing about the hotel? Its located across the road from the resort base. If you bring your room key along, they give you a 10% discount off the lift ticket.

Meals at Moiwa

The Lodge provided breakfast at restaurant Raphael is pretty standard. There was rice, curry, miso soup, salad, eggs, toast, fruit and cereal. At night, Raphael has a Western menu with pizzas, burgers and steaks. 

Residents chose to either make a run to Niseko or walk to Mokunosho onsen hotel where you can buy beers, sake, snacks and bento from the souvenir shop. The Lodge’s front desk may also know where to get some Sapporo Classics if you ask..

Skiing at Niseko Moiwa

Unlike the other 4 giant Niseko resorts, Moiwa only has 3 lifts. Those in the know are here for the powder snow and uncrowded runs. When I was there, apart from a large group of boarders from SE Asia who were having a hard time in the deep snow, most of the runs were empty.

The center pair lift opens at 8:30 which means you get a nice 1 or 2 runs down the main run before heading to the quad lift which opens at 9am. There is usually a line at the quad, but most people make a bee line for the gates to the Annupuri backcountry bowls leaving the resort uncrowded. From the Skyline ridge, there was amazing powder on course and off piste through the trees which were not roped off. 

On the first morning, conditions could not have been better. It had snowed over night and there were periodic snow showers giving us a nice top up. It continued like this over the next few days but the weather was gradually turning warmer and the snow was losing its powder like quality. 

Moiwa Mountain Center

The resort center has a rental center with Head skis and Burton snowboards. You can have your skis and boards waxed overnight. There is also a  little stand by Sapporo snowboard shop Mojane where you can buy proper accessories like goggles, balaclavas and gloves. If you are staying at Lodge 834 you can bring your room key for a 10% discount off the lift tickets.

The restaurant is located on the top floor and is probably the most crowded place in Moiwa. You can also have lunch at the Raphael restaurant back at the lodge.